Floors, made new.

Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) is a vinyl plank with a water-resistant core and a printed wood look. It is a practical choice for kitchens, baths, entries, basements and rentals — anywhere a floor sees water, pets and traffic.

Most LVP is click-lock: the planks lock together and float over the subfloor, so the job goes quickly. Some products are glue-down, usually for large open areas or where the manufacturer calls for it. Either way we follow the product’s instructions for underlayment and expansion space.

Before the new floor goes in we can take out the old one — tile, carpet, laminate or LVP, hardwood, sheet vinyl — and check the subfloor. If repairs are needed, they are quoted after we see the subfloor on site.

Transitions, baseboards and matching stairs can be part of the same job, so the room looks finished, not just covered. The planks in our visualizer are about 7" wide; the final color is always confirmed with a physical sample.

Laminate has a high-resolution wood-look layer over a dense fiberboard core, under a hard wear surface. It looks like wood, stands up well to everyday traffic and costs less than hardwood.

Laminate floats: it goes over an underlayment, and it needs an expansion gap at every wall, which is hidden under the baseboard or quarter round. We plan the layout before the first row so the end joints are staggered and the last row is not a thin sliver.

Laminate tolerates spills but not standing water, so for bathrooms and laundry rooms LVP is usually the better pick — we will tell you honestly which one fits the room.

Old floor removal, transitions, baseboards and stairs can be added to the same estimate. The planks in our visualizer are about 7½" wide; confirm the final color with a physical sample.

Engineered hardwood is real wood on top — a hardwood wear layer — over a layered, plywood-type core. The core makes it more stable than solid wood when humidity changes, which is why it comes in wider planks: usually 4" and up.

It can be nailed down over a wood subfloor or glued down where the subfloor or the product calls for it. In our calculator you can switch between Nail-down and Glue-down and see the labor price for each.

Like any wood floor, it is checked against the product’s requirements for moisture and flatness before install, and the old floor comes out first if needed.

Wide engineered planks pair well with matching stair treads, new baseboards and clean transitions to tile or carpet. Colors in the visualizer are color families — confirm the final color with a physical sample.

Solid hardwood is one piece of wood from top to bottom. Most of the solid floors we install are prefinished 2¼" strips; 3¼" is available on request — the photo shows one of our 3¼" solid floors.

Wood moves with the seasons, so solid flooring is acclimated and the subfloor is checked for moisture before the first board goes down. It is usually nailed down over a wood subfloor; glue-down is possible where the subfloor calls for it.

Layout matters with narrow strips: board lengths are mixed so the joints do not line up, and the rows run straight from wall to wall.

Our herringbone floors are made from solid hardwood too. Add stairs, baseboards and transitions to finish the room in matching wood.

Herringbone is made of short planks set at an angle so they form the classic zigzag. We install it in solid hardwood.

The pattern starts from a carefully snapped centerline, so it runs straight down the room and lines up with doors and walls. The pieces along the walls are cut and fitted one by one, and the borders and transitions are finished cleanly.

Because there is much more cutting and fitting than with straight planks, herringbone has its own line in our calculator.

The photo is one of our herringbone jobs in progress. Ask us about borders and how the pattern meets other rooms — we plan that before we start.

A new floor is only as good as what is under it. Most jobs start with taking the old floor out: tile, carpet, laminate or LVP, hardwood, sheet vinyl, old stair treads or stair carpet. Each one has its own line in our calculator.

Once the old floor is out, we check the subfloor for flatness, loose or squeaky spots and damage. Repairs and leveling are quoted only after we see the subfloor on site — every house is different, so we do not guess.

The photo shows a real staircase stripped down to the plywood, ready for new treads and risers.

Stairs are where a floor job shows its quality. We install new treads, risers and matching nosings — in LVP or in hardwood — so the stairs match the new floor.

Old treads or stair carpet come out first; each step is measured and fitted on its own, because no two steps in a house are exactly the same.

Stairs are priced per step in our calculator, with removal of old treads or stair carpet as its own line. The photos in “Real jobs” show our stair work from bottom to top.

Baseboards and transitions are what make a floor look finished. They cover the expansion gap at the walls, protect the paint and join floors of different heights between rooms.

We install new baseboards with tight, neatly fitted corners. If your baseboards are in good shape, we can carefully remove them and put the same ones back after the floor is in.

Transitions to tile, carpet or another floor are fitted at every doorway. In our calculator, baseboards and transitions are priced per linear foot, and remove-and-reinstall has its own line.